Mt. Wilson  
Condition Updates  
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-10-06, By: Jasonicfederation
Info: Snow in Kilpacker Basin above ~12,300'. I put on my microspikes at about 13,700', and exchanged trekking poles for axe at about 13,900', prior to the "rock rib crossover". Snow was mostly only a few inches or so, but it was definitely deeper in the gully just before the rib crossover, near 13,900'... I took my time and really tested my foot placement in that area. There was at least some additional snow again overnight (Tue the 5th/early morning of Wed the 6th), but I don't think it was a whole lot more accumulation so would expect similar conditions as described. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2021-10-09, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Wilson Peak on Monday October 4 and got a good look at the north side of the mountain. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-09-27, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Traverse is clear of snow from the "organ pipes" all the way to the "narrows". You encounter snow, on the north side of the traverse while down climbing picture 28. Traction would make it easier, but not necessary, our group did not have traction. Picture 22, showing the route going directly over the rock on the left of a giant crack, did not look safe in our groups eyes. There are a set of cairns to the right of the crack that lead you up and around this section, right up to the ridge. In picture 22, the giant crack is above the sliver of snow, cairns are to the right of here. In picture 30, rock and dirt was pretty stable on the left side. The crux move, right before the summit, is spicy and a lot of fun! The traverse was challenging to say the least. From the "organ pipes" to the "narrows" is straight forward. After that, our group had some challenges with the terrain and comfort levels. All in all, all 4 in our group successfully crossed! 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-09-25, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Day tripped Wilson and El Diente from Kilpacker with no traverse. SW slopes on Wilson are summer conditions, easy class 3. Summit log canister broken and paper needs to be replaced. 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-09-06, By: Flyingfish
Info: Route is dry the whole way. The traverse is scary with the number of people that were up there Labor Day weekend lots of loose rock and rock fall. Be aware of people above and below you. 
Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2021-08-20, By: ericd01
Info: Exhilarating & airy in a few places coming from a morning climb up El Diente. From Kilpacker TH, 6.5-hrs to summit including the 2-hr solo traverse. Approaching from the SE, the 7-mile Kilpacker Trail offered lush vegetation, water access, well-cairned talus fields, and an upwind view of inbound clouds & thickness. Although commitment & exposure remain high on Mt Wilson, an escape route at the saddle near the narrows section is only about a 30-min commitment at worst case scenario. SW Slopes descent, 4-hrs to parking lot. 
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Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2021-08-22, By: kissmyiceaxe
Info: Camped about 3 miles in near the creek- great water source. Summited El D and Mt Wilson the next day. A little under 7 miles from camp to camp, but a long day on the traverse and alllllll the talus. There's a saddle about 3/4 of the way through the traverse that we chose to bail on bc of weather moving in, so we dropped down a few hundred feet and hooked up with the SW Slope trail and summited Mt Wilson that way. This avoids any class 4 moves on the traverse. Dry, summer conditions the whole way, but no easy water source after you leave the creek/meadow. 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-08-07, By: JROSKA
Info: There were a few minor snowfields remaining in the drainage but all can either be avoided or can be crossed on rocks in the snowfield. No snow anywhere else. Some loose rock in the steeper upper sections of the drainage was problematic but both gullies below the summit seemed very stable at the sides. Trail at the start of the approach was a bit muddy. 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2021-08-02, By: Ssgustafson
Info: Good trail up El Diente from Kilpacker, and then terrific traverse to Mt Wilson. Descent of North Slopes into Navajo Basin was a pretty awful rock hop. No trail until about 12,300 El. Talked to USFS rep on the hike out who said a multi-year trail renovation project was beginning - but would not expect any significant near term improvement. Suggest Kilpacker approach. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-07-12, By: donovanrice
Info: Did North Buttress up El Diente, then the traverse to Mt Wilson, then down North Slopes of Mt Wilson. Camped at Navajo Lake the night before and after. You could also camp in the upper Navajo Basin, but it would be exposed. Really refreshing water in the basin! North Buttress was really enjoyable, with solid rock virtually the entire route. We took the alternate route proposed by KeithK at the top, and it was really intuitive and solid. Only snow we encountered was during the traverse right before the final gully to Mt Wilson. Looks like you could maneuver around it, though the 3 of us crossed it just fine without traction (1 had ice axe, 1 had whippet, and 1 had no self arrest device). Descending North Slope of Mt Wilson was tedious with loose rocks, but no mandatory snow crossings. The next day, we hiked up the Rock of Ages saddle in attempt to summit Wilson Peak, but we turned around out of sheer exhaustion from the day before. Better safe than sorry, and the peak will always be there in the future! 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2021-07-12, By: kcovingt1
Info: Took the Kilpacker approach which was mostly dry until you enter the drainage. Large snow fields that are essentially ice in the early mornings. We did not have spikes or axes and it added probably an hour to our trip. I would recommend taking these items. Do not try to go around the snow for now because otherwise you scramble extremely loose rock that triggers slides from above. Route is dry above about 13,700'. Fun climb the rest of the way. Will add photos soon. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-07-07, By: cougar
Info: Traverse is summer conditions, small stretch of snow below wilson summit easily crossed, good tracks. North slopes descent dry, snow is not on route 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-07-07, By: ButterDips12
Info: Had a stellar day on the El Diente, Mt Wilson Traverse. There is snow on the descent of Mt Wilson's SW Slopes but it warms up nice for careful glissading around 12pm on a sunny day. A new friend joined us on the traverse and we met another person coming up the wrong gully of Mt Wilson's SW slopes. We all descended together to the trailhead. There is a lot of loose rock to be dealt with on this route but some larger rocks are loose that you wouldn't expect to move; but they do. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2021-06-14, By: NatDog
Info: Traverse was mostly dry. There were 4 or 5 short snow crossings along the way. We used ice axes, but there were frozen postholes that made them relatively easy to cross without difficulty. The only difficult snow crossing was just below the final gully that leads to Mt. Wilson's summit ridge. The summit ridge was dry. The descent of the SW Slopes was snow covered until near the turnoff for the El Diente trail. By the time we descended in the late morning, the snow had softened enough to make glissading down through much of the upper basin safe and easy. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-06-06, By: KalenJones
Info: Left TH at 4am, 39ยบ, clear skies. Traverse into Slate Creek had some unavoidable and soft drifts, but stayed reasonably dry w/o gaiters. Transitioned to snow at 11,800', 8:30am. Very firm in the bottom of the drainage, but as soon as I was in the sun it was significantly softer; to the arch kicking steps in Boxcar, and ankle high in the upper couloir. Began descent at 10:40, good consistency for plunge stepping and glisading (regular E face route). Somewhat surprisingly little sign of recent snow movement, given what I've seen in the neighborhood the last week. Mama bear and two cubs in the meadows about 10 min. after leaving Slate Creek; I let them know of my presence from a long ways off, and they ran. Saw either one of them, or another bear, about 30 minutes later. Part way through the return traverse I grew weary of the downfall and drifts, and took a chance on a direct route back to the trail, which by virtue of having a little more open forest, proved to be easier. A little more distance and elevation, but a net gain. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-05-23, By: supranihilest
Info: I did not climb Mount Wilson today, but got a couple pictures of Wilson's east face from nearby Gladstone Peak. Wilson's east face looks eminently climbable right now. Be aware of wet slides in the next few days. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-05-09, By: Coloradokid_
Info: Didn't need snowshoes the first 1.5 miles, after making the turnoff from the cross mountain trail I wore snowshoes to the top of the first head wall around 12.2k. From there I wore crampons all the way to the summit. Snow conditions were great up high. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-04-14, By: rangercarl
Info: 40ft of dry rock to the summit. boxcar couloir was in good shape for skiing. Snow coverage from lizard head pass was continuous. 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-04-10, By: ClimberSkierDave64
Info: We climbed and skied the East Face yesterday. We started at 4:30 AM and got to the top a little bit before 2:00 PM. It took us a lot longer than expected, especially the route finding through the forest. We made the same mistake as the last people who skied it by staying to high in the forest and having to descend a steep hill on skins down to the creek. The snow was hard as a rock on the way up but we were still able to skin all the way to 13,100 ft. except for a little boot packing on the first headwall. There were multiple good sized wet slides from the previous week on south facing aspects, especially on the slope to the right that you cross under around 11.5k. Above 13.1k, we broke trail bootpacking up the face, since the bootpack from the last group had blown over and wasn't visible for the most part. The snow was pretty much the same hard, icy and chalky wind crusted snow mixed with powder covered with a suncrust on the right side of the face and couloir. The snow was about perfect for bootpacking all the way up, with ankle deep snow for the most part, although some places had harder or deeper and softer snow. Crampons and Ice Axe were both necessary, especially on the harder snow in the left side of the couloir. The final class 3 pitch is completely dry except for some ice and a 30 foot snow pitch right below the summit. I did it in ski boots but my friend transitioned to trailrunners. Trailrunners were fine except for the final 30 foot snow pitch where ski boots were better and an Ice Axe was necessary. The first 1,000 ft. of the ski descent was pretty bad skiing. It was icy, chalky snow mixed with suncrust. Below that, the snow slowly transitioned to corn and the final two headwalls had some fun corn skiing back to treeline. The snow never got soft enough the whole day for wet slides with temperatures in the high 20s or low 30s above treeline. Boxcar looks in and some people have skied it recently it seems. We chose not to because of the icy conditions. The skin back up through the forest and back to the Cross Mountain trail was horrible and took longer than expected. We followed the GPX but it seemed to get too low and get into some steeper hills to traverse. I would go higher and stay on the flatter benches in the terrain like we did in the morning. Overall, it was a fun, challenging day that was tiring and long (13 hrs) with the long slog out. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2021-04-04, By: artemavovk
Info: Did not summit - got to 13800 but too late in the day. Weather is too warm, so you have to be up there before noon to be safe. Early day snow is strong and plentiful. There's a week+ old ski track that I tried to follow but coming down to the creeks was rough (so now you get my meandering tracks too). Waist high snow if you ever misstep - snowshoes won't save you in the afternoon. On the actual slopes the snowpack is stable early in the day, but south/east facing slopes have lots of slides and I saw some start after 1pm. North facing slopes are a bit safer, so I hugged those. Once past the headwalls (12k+) there's a tonne of slides and it was so late in the day that the final couloir did not look safe and booting up was not a good option - waist deep snow again. Does make for a great ski down though. 
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