Pyramid Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-11-09, By: amitchell
Info: We did not summit due to high avalanche risk in the valley of the amphitheater caused by wind slabs. I took a single step that caused a 100ft crack to propagate through the snow. We turned around immediately. This valley sees near 24/7 shade and consistently heavy gusts during this time of year, so do not rely on avalanche forecasts. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-09-30, By: fugueofbach
Info: About 2 inches of snow starting a few hundred below the amphitheater from this last storm today. Didn't go further than the high point of it before turning back. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-09-18, By: ericd01
Info: Midnight-to-midnight parking permits easy to get now. The snow-free September conditions offer a modest 4hr ascent. Various routes across amphitheater, then 1000' of loose couloir up to the 'ridge of the goats'. Light rain showers dampen the rotten red rock but manageable through cliff bands. A rugged green zebra wall to the top of the pyramid! 
2
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-08-09, By: constipated_pete
Info: Lots of goats on the trail looking to lick pee off rocks, and they're very inconsiderate about knocking rocks down on you as they follow you around. Went for a tactical pee-and-run to get some off our tails on the descent. 
4 1
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-28, By: jslove1
Info: Just wanted to put two things out there. First, the goats here were serious today and I got properly stalked from 12.5-13.8k. Be ready for that. Also, don't get lazy about checking holds when their failure would be consequential. I know everyone knows this already, but it's easy to get lazy. The green wall is deceivingly chossy. Glad to have my helmet for when the goats kicked stuff down on me. 
1
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-24, By: coopereitel
Info: Full summer conditions. Very fun and exciting climb. Because I wanted more info of the terrain beyond the green wall, I will add a few points. Above the green wall the terrain is quite self explanatory and if you follow the cairns, which are obvious, your climb will be a breeze. Only class 4 is to pull yourself over the cliff bands. Simple and fun! 
3
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-22, By: Federico
Info: Reached the top of Pyramid today. Tough climb-a lot of steep terrain-but not long. It took me under 8hrs and was able to catch the shuttle there and back. The trail can be tough to find at times but plenty of cairns to follow. I had an easier time finding them on the way down than on the way up. Nice to come across a handful of Mountain Goats. 
1 3
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-16, By: kimbuk2
Info: About 8.7 miles RT, started at 4:30 am, took about 9 hours. Summer conditions except for one patch of snow (about 20ft.) in the rock amphitheater area. Dry throughout besides that. A lot of loose rock and rockfall (and mountain goats). Requires a good bit of route finding due to missing cairns and sometimes just a random assortment of cairns. I kept referencing the 14ers offline photos to stay on route. The entire route is pretty relentless once you leave the Bells trail. Lots and lots of loose rock, rock hopping, boulder hopping, gulley climbing (and yikes the descent, I put on microspikes for the steep dirt/scree to help with traction), scrambling, and route-finding. Weather was clear and sunny with some clouds beginning to form around 11am but no weather event. Brought 2.5L of water, drank about 1.75L. Gear (women's): Trail runners (La Sportiva Mutants), RAB lightweight tee, Fjallraven Abisko sun hoodie, Fjallraven Abisko trekking tights, Patagonia R1 layer, light gloves, trekking poles, microspikes for steep scree/dirt. 
5 3
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-11, By: durkan
Info: Brought ice axe and traction, but they were unnecessary as any snow was avoidable. Poles definitely useful on the slopes from 12k~13k for ascending and descending. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-08, By: RestlessLegSyndrome
Info: Full summer conditions. Very dry. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-07, By: Ericsheffey
Info: Summitted Pyramid 7/6. Small snowfield when entering the Amphitheater. Didn't need or use any spikes or traction. Other than that, summer conditions throughout. 
5 3
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-05, By: sk8rat843
Info: Trail is in summer conditions all the way to the amphitheater. There's a snow patch in the amphitheater that eventually you have to cross. It was firm on the ascent and descent. The rest of the trail is in summer conditions. Mountain goats will lead you up the mountain or they'll stalk you; it depends on how you look at it. Don't rely on finding much water up there. There's some flowing while gaining the ridge, but that's about it. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-07-03, By: fancyco
Info: There is a long track of snow in the amphitheater that you can pretty much avoid if you want to other than that, full summer conditions 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-28, By: jeffreydreid
Info: Did this without microspikes or an iceaxe on 6/23 and it was fine. Snow leading up to the amphitheater was soft enough to walk on. A bit of snow in some spots above the saddle at 13k ft but completely avoidable...probably all melted by now. Lots of mountain goats on this route, including one who drank my friend's pee (while he was peeing). Fun hike. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-21, By: NatDog
Info: The route is snow-free other than 3 sections: 1. (Photo #1) The lower amphitheater between 11,300' and 11,500'. I used microspikes and ice axe here but one of my partners used neither and didn't have any issues. The snow continued higher but once we located the trail we turned right to get back on trail. 2. There is a snow crossing/cornice directly on the 13,100' saddle. I didn't get a photo of this but it was maybe only 50' of walking on snow. No one in my group used traction or ice axe here as were were able to walk directly on the ridge. 3. (Photo #2) The last gully before crossing over to the base of the green wall. The upper layer was soft enough that I was able to walk across without traction/ice axe, although one of my partners used an ice axe as a handrail to cross. 
3 1
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-06-12, By: rosey33
Info: Easy to follow trail into the amphitheater. Avoidable snow climbing to the saddle. Choose the path of least resistance to the summit. Stayed near the route at times. Crossed 4 snowfields. Crampons unnecessary. 
3 2
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2021-05-15, By: artemavovk
Info: Got so close, but snow is melting fast and early - had to turn around before 10AM. Continuous snow from the start of Pyramid Peak Trail. Used spikes and axe into the amphitheater. Switch to crampons up to the ridge and all the way down (ended up with a couple self-arrests anyway). Snow is supportive up to the ridge; after that it was either too late or it never solidified - you might make it if you're at the ridge around 8AM. Lots of slides and rollers on all aspects. Snowshoes could be useful on the way back as everything below amphitheater turns into mush and slides. 
4 1
Route: West gully
Posted On: 2021-04-25, By: bmcqueen
Info: John Balciar and I went up Pyramid's winter west gully route. Road isn't open yet, so long walk in there. Road was mostly dry. From Maroon Lake, there is a mix of snow and dirt on the trail. We walked across snowy/frozen Crater Lake and put crampons on as we started up the west gully. There is decent snow coverage up to where the route joins the ridge, then a mix of snow and rock. Final bowl before the JP Sneak had more snow than expected. We contoured below it and climbed straight up to the sneak. Didn't love the exposure on that finish, so we descended via the lesser know JB Sneak. Snowshoes not needed in the am at all. We wore snowshoes on the descent from Crater Lake nearly back to Maroon Lake. 
14 3
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-12, By: geojed
Info: 1-3” of snow on the route. Microspikes definitely needed at least from base of climb up out of Amphitheater to summit. Some will melt off this week. 
7 2
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-24, By: kevmonster
Info: Summer conditions. Leaves are about to peak. 

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