Peak(s):  "Anderson Peak"  -  13,631 feet
"Petroleum Peak"  -  13,505 feet
Teocalli Mountain  -  13,208 feet
Date Posted:  08/04/2014
Date Climbed:   06/27/2014
Author:  Kylie
Additional Members:   Boggy B
 N. Couloir Anderson Pk, NE Couloir Teocalli Mnt   

I know this trip report is a little belated but these snow lines were a great end to an awesome snow climbing season and just too good not to share.

We climbed the North Couloir on Anderson Peak on Friday, June 27th, Cathedral's east face Saturday and a Northeast couloir on Teocalli Mountain Sunday, June 29th.
Anderson/Petroleum:
Miles: 9.2
Gain: 3730'
Time: 8:55

Teocalli:

Miles: 5.9
Gain: 3420'
Time: 6:10

Michael spotted the line on Anderson a couple of years ago and was aching to climb it this season. The line can be deceiving and appears melted out until you're right in front of it. Last year we saw it from the road, thought it was out and bailed - this year we were not so naive and arrived at Anderson Lake to find the line in great condition.

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Approaching the lake

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Almost at the base of the line


The line is 1200' of continuously steep snow (!). This photo shows a good overview of the route:
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Ready to climb!


The snow goes at about 45-50 degrees to the choke where we turned left and continued up 60+ degree snow alongside a large rock slab. This section was a bit icy and a lot of fun!
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Starting the climb

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The narrow section to the left above the choke. Fun!


Above the narrow section we continued straight up at 50-55 degrees. The snow steepens again to 60+ as you approach the top of the line.
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Continuing up above the narrow section

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Looking up at the remainder of the route

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This was a really aesthetic line - love these views!

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Near the top of the line


We climbed over a steep cornice at the top of the line to gain the ridge and went east to the summit.
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Michael climbing over the cornice

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Nice view of the line from above

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Looking over to Petroleum from the summit


We followed the easy ridge to Petroleum Peak and found a few short lived glissades down the east slopes to meet up with the trail at Anderson lake.
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Gotta love spring!


View of Anderson back on the jarring Lincoln Creek Road - most of the line hidden behind the cliffs.
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Anderson from the road

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Route


We climbed Cathedral and Malemute Saturday and drove to Crested Butte for Teocalli on Sunday. In early March, we saw the NE face of Teocalli from the summit of Oyster Peak and had hoped to climb the face this spring.
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Heavy snow cover on Teocalli from Oyster in early March. Enticing!


We drove up the gnarly Brush Creek (Pearl Pass) Road to 10,000' about a mile before the road crosses the creek. The following morning we waded across the creek with garbage bags over our feet hoping to stay dry - this was not an effective method! With wet feet, we were happy for the short remaining hike to the base of the line.
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The northeast face of Teocalli coming into view

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Overview of the line


The line goes for 1300' at mostly 40 degrees (not as steep as we'd hoped) with a short section that reaches 55 on the upper portion of the route.
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Approaching the line

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On the apron

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Looking up the lower portion of the line

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Yeah!

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On the upper portion of the line

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Finishing up the steeper section


At the top, the route cuts a hard left and gets a bit chossy but we were able to remain on continuous snow to the top of the ridge.
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Cutting left to avoid as much choss as possible

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Climbing to the left

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A little bit icy here but brief

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Looking back - so happy to have this little line of snow

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Just enough

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The snow meandering through the rock and back to the right to top out


The ridge topped out steeply -
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Not bad!

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I took a lower angle line to the right

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Looking down the line from the top out


Even once we were on the ridge, the snow continued for the final 150' to the summit where we enjoyed nice springtime views of the Elks.
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Snow to the summit! Crampons get to stay on!


We descended the southeast ridge and waded through the river a second time to meet Marshmallow and complete a nice loop.
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Descending the SE ridge, love the contrast of the snow and greenery on spring climbs!

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We went through fields of wildflowers!

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Looking back at Anderson

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Crossing the river!

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Marshmallow!

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Route


Both of these snow lines, particularly Anderson, offered great climbing and were a lot of fun - would highly recommended them for next spring!



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Doug Shaw
awesome
08/04/2014 15:38
Loved seeing this!

That line on Anderson caught my eye back in 2008 during the egress from Grizzly but I never got back there to climb it. Looks even better up close than it did from afar. Thanks for posting!


Col_Forbin
User
Nice Lines
08/04/2014 17:39
These are exactly my type of climbs. Anderson is now on my list for next spring!


goingup
User
Amazing Kylie
08/04/2014 17:47
I so want to get into snow climbing but need to become less scared of steep snow.

This was very good inspiration!!!


Kylie
User
thanks!
08/04/2014 18:45
Thanks guys, I'm glad the info will be helpful. Definitely worth checking out! Kay, snow climbing so much fun! I was really scared on the first few lines I did. Haha, I literally would not look down until we were securely on the ridge! I'm sure you would do great!


fepic1
User
Wow
08/04/2014 20:41
you two are incredible
steeep!
great photos and report Kylie


FireOnTheMountain
User
not cool
08/05/2014 03:37
sweet snow lines in middle of summer. Oh well, I'm over it. Can see why Boggster put Anderson in top 5 lines in CO!

Nice work! Little tame compared to Peru eh, but still good practice nonetheless



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